Worm's Eye View of Nepal Tourism in light of current events
Today, Feb. 1
And now I have my visa - but timing for the trip may be the worst possible in beleaguered Nepal's already 10 year's + of not ideal travel times.
NPR roused me from bed with the news: "Nepal's King Gyanendra sacked the government, declared a state of emergency and assumed power on Tuesday, saying the leadership had failed to hold polls or restore peace amid an escalating civil war with Maoist rebels." Since 2001 there's been unrest, and Nepal's tourism has spiraled, but this was – apparently – a new low.
India is worried, sending a “strongly worded” document to the King that his drastic move would further antagonism between royalty, the political parties on one side -- Maoists on the other. In London, the Nepalese Ambassador was summoned so Brits could “convey their concern.” For now, international flights into Kathmandu are being rerouted.
The friendly front desk security at 820 Second Ave was worried when he saw my sign in. "Really bad there you know, not safe." Again - no other sign-ins “Nepal, Floor 17”on the the page. Plenty of Liberias, a smattering for Peru but once again the threadbare office of Nepal's Mission to the UN was empty. Save for me, and a new younger version of yesterday's man behind the counter. He acknowledged that things were not at their best in his homeland, with sad head wiggles repeated "politics is silly business" and would commit neither pro or anti my upcoming visit. He was though, visibly relieved that I had a friend in the capital.
Now have a Nepal Immigration Tourist Entry Visa (good for 6 months from entry), dated Feb 01 2005.
Yesterday, Jan 31
Just now returned from dropping passport for stamping and stickering at the Kingdom of Nepal's Mission to the UN. Dreary walk to Second Ave on 42nd. I forget about the far east side and the grim grayness of the UN area. The flags fluttering about the traffic lights don't add much cheer. Office on the 17th floor of a mostly UN building. Lots of sign-ins for Liberia, none I could see for Nepal. Samoa and the Solomon Islands are on the 8th floor, Nicaragua is in the building. Home of the little guys with little UN Missions.
Mounted to 17th, face to face in gray hallway with The Office of the Federated States of Micronesia - they wrangled better placement than Nepal down the hall.
Threadbare office of an entry foyer and a waiting room of 6 bruised pink chairs, anchored to one another and formica tables. A few ancient posters, an even older country map, no mention of any problems but also no one else in the room and no one behind the counter, only the sign:
"Bad planning on your part does not necessarily constitute an emergency on my part."
I called "hello" and a man appeared without fanfare behind the plastic partition. We processed my form. My passport, little photo and $30 were accepted without comment, my receipt clearly written .I was dismissed till same time tomorrow.
Compared to the snaking lines, deli numbers and friendly hubbub of the Indian Consulate's Visa Office- in the grimy basement of their fancy-facaded building on 73rd – Nepal has wandered off tourist itineraries. I imagine in its pre-Maoist, pre 2001 heyday the Visa room would have been filled and the downstairs sign-in binder full of "Nepal, 17th Floor".
C
And now I have my visa - but timing for the trip may be the worst possible in beleaguered Nepal's already 10 year's + of not ideal travel times.
NPR roused me from bed with the news: "Nepal's King Gyanendra sacked the government, declared a state of emergency and assumed power on Tuesday, saying the leadership had failed to hold polls or restore peace amid an escalating civil war with Maoist rebels." Since 2001 there's been unrest, and Nepal's tourism has spiraled, but this was – apparently – a new low.
India is worried, sending a “strongly worded” document to the King that his drastic move would further antagonism between royalty, the political parties on one side -- Maoists on the other. In London, the Nepalese Ambassador was summoned so Brits could “convey their concern.” For now, international flights into Kathmandu are being rerouted.
The friendly front desk security at 820 Second Ave was worried when he saw my sign in. "Really bad there you know, not safe." Again - no other sign-ins “Nepal, Floor 17”on the the page. Plenty of Liberias, a smattering for Peru but once again the threadbare office of Nepal's Mission to the UN was empty. Save for me, and a new younger version of yesterday's man behind the counter. He acknowledged that things were not at their best in his homeland, with sad head wiggles repeated "politics is silly business" and would commit neither pro or anti my upcoming visit. He was though, visibly relieved that I had a friend in the capital.
Now have a Nepal Immigration Tourist Entry Visa (good for 6 months from entry), dated Feb 01 2005.
Yesterday, Jan 31
Just now returned from dropping passport for stamping and stickering at the Kingdom of Nepal's Mission to the UN. Dreary walk to Second Ave on 42nd. I forget about the far east side and the grim grayness of the UN area. The flags fluttering about the traffic lights don't add much cheer. Office on the 17th floor of a mostly UN building. Lots of sign-ins for Liberia, none I could see for Nepal. Samoa and the Solomon Islands are on the 8th floor, Nicaragua is in the building. Home of the little guys with little UN Missions.
Mounted to 17th, face to face in gray hallway with The Office of the Federated States of Micronesia - they wrangled better placement than Nepal down the hall.
Threadbare office of an entry foyer and a waiting room of 6 bruised pink chairs, anchored to one another and formica tables. A few ancient posters, an even older country map, no mention of any problems but also no one else in the room and no one behind the counter, only the sign:
"Bad planning on your part does not necessarily constitute an emergency on my part."
I called "hello" and a man appeared without fanfare behind the plastic partition. We processed my form. My passport, little photo and $30 were accepted without comment, my receipt clearly written .I was dismissed till same time tomorrow.
Compared to the snaking lines, deli numbers and friendly hubbub of the Indian Consulate's Visa Office- in the grimy basement of their fancy-facaded building on 73rd – Nepal has wandered off tourist itineraries. I imagine in its pre-Maoist, pre 2001 heyday the Visa room would have been filled and the downstairs sign-in binder full of "Nepal, 17th Floor".
C
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