swoon

Saturday eve second dinner at Swoon (340 Warren Street, Hudson) in two weeks (first on night of closing). Feel like I should say something.

First though: I am no foodie and this is not a review. I am my dad's daughter (dad of cream-chipped-beef on toast) - happy to dine on hummous and ryvitas. I'll spend on travel, books, drinks and clogs rather than fancy dinner. I order salads and eat too much from the bread basket.

Furthermore, I'm over amuse bouches and prix-fixe menus that insist you order a desert then bring 15 types of tiny sweets and petit-fours to the table. I'm against radical pairings for the sake of radical pairings. I'm tired of kitchen's that won't let a good meal just end, that send you away with a coffee cake. I'd rather have a pot pie.

So...

I don't love Swoon for the food per se - though I admire it (they do boiled spinach), find it fairly priced, hearty, local and yummy. Friends who order main courses seemed pleased. They feature big wines which I also like - I prefer the obvious on the palette.

But, mostly I love Swoon for being a restaurant perfectly in tune with the perfect town it inhabits: for neither over, nor underdecorating, pulling back from pastels, allowing homo-erotic edge in its art, letting alone the pressed tin ceilings, hiding the drinks menu at the long bar unless you insist, letting large tables of noisy men just be and serving sambuca.

It's got a vibe like the late Grange Hall, but without pounding the "eat local" thing so hard.

Critiques (tiny): name a little much and website utterly undersells the restaurant.

Other than that, have found my local.

C

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