Newsday on Nepal

Amazingly, in this journalistic era of under-reporting, Newsday sent journalist Matthew Mcallister and photographer Moises Saman, to Nepal this last June.

They trekked into Nepal's isolated western mountains and spent time amongst the Maosists. Their journey, and access, are unprecedented.

The Nepal I saw in February was majestic, the lower Musthang villages romantic in their medieval isolation, Kathmandu and Bhaktapur spectacular.

I never met Maoists - I was in regions of Nepal where Maosists have yet to gain support. Why? Because till now Kathmandu and the well trod (and kept) Annapurna circuit have been the touristic face forward of the country. While trekkers poured into the lakeside Phokara, launched week and month-long treks from the tiny Jomson, the Maosist would not gain a foothold.

But, this February, the Maoist's presence was evident by another absence. As my guide and I trod through the riverbed valley towards Kagbeni, we had the ancient trade route almost to ourselves; only a mule caravan to break the spell. At the Red House Lodge that evening, I dined solo in a room of empty tables, and was the inn's only occupant that night. Tourists have been scared off, turned off, forced to seek Himalayan heights out from Ladakh, or Bhutan, or (for the very wise) Sikkim.

Nepal's door is shutting. With each report of more bus bombings, coups and killings, the isolation gets more accute.

With global notice, perhaps Nepal - its wonders and its long-suffering people - have a fighting chance.

C